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Penne Alla Vodka with Pancetta

Splashes of vodka and cream can turn run-of-the-mill tomato sauce into luxurious restaurant fare—or a heavy, boozy mistake. We set out to fine-tune this modern classic.
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained, liquid reserved
  • 1 tablespoons olive oil use 2 tablespoons if omitting the pancetta
  • 3 ounces pancetta (optional), thinly sliced, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
  • ½ small onion minced (about 1/4 cup)
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 2 medium cloves garlic minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
  • ½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
  • table salt
  • cup vodka
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 1 pound penne pasta or rigatoni
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves
  • grated Parmesan cheese for serving

Instructions

Prepare the tomatoes:

  • Strain the tomatoes and reserve the juices.
  • Puree half of the tomatoes in a food processor until smooth.
  • Dice the remaining tomatoes into 1/2-inch pieces, discarding the cores.
  • Combine the pureed and diced tomatoes in a liquid measuring cup (you should have about 1 2/3 cups).
  • Add the reserved liquid to equal 2 cups.

Cook the pancetta (if using):

  • Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering.
  • Add the pancetta (if using) and cook until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes.
  • Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a small bowl and set aside.
  • Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan.

Sauté the aromatics:

  • If not using pancetta, heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering.
  • Add the onion and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are light golden around edges, about 3 minutes.
  • Add the garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Finish the sauce:

  • Stir in the tomatoes and a pinch of salt.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and add the vodka.
  • Return the pan to medium-high heat and simmer briskly until the alcohol flavor is cooked off, 8 to 10 minutes; stir frequently and lower the heat to medium if the simmering becomes too vigorous.
  • Stir in the cream and cook until hot, about 1 minute.

Cook the pasta:

  • Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large Dutch oven over high heat.
  • Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the pasta.
  • Cook until just shy of al dente.
  • Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of cooking water, and transfer the pasta back to the Dutch oven.

Finish and serve:

  • Add the sauce to the pasta and toss over medium heat until the pasta absorbs some of sauce, 1 to 2 minutes, adding the reserved cooking water if the sauce is too thick.
  • Stir in the basil and the reserved pancetta and adjust the seasoning with salt.
  • Divide among pasta bowls and serve immediately, passing the Parmesan separately.

Notes

  • So that the sauce and pasta finish cooking at the same time, drop the pasta into boiling water just after adding the vodka to the sauce.
  • If possible, use premium vodka; inexpensive brands will taste harsh in this sauce.
  • Pepper vodka imparts a pleasant flavor and can be substituted for plain.
  • For a easier version: substitute the canned whole tomatoes for 2 cups of tomato passata.