Penne Alla Vodka with Pancetta
Splashes of vodka and cream can turn run-of-the-mill tomato sauce into luxurious restaurant fare—or a heavy, boozy mistake. We set out to fine-tune this modern classic.
Servings: 4
- 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained, liquid reserved
- 1 tablespoons olive oil use 2 tablespoons if omitting the pancetta
- 3 ounces pancetta (optional), thinly sliced, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
- ½ small onion minced (about 1/4 cup)
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 2 medium cloves garlic minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
- ½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
- table salt
- ⅓ cup vodka
- ½ cup heavy cream
- 1 pound penne pasta or rigatoni
- 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves
- grated Parmesan cheese for serving
Prepare the tomatoes:
Strain the tomatoes and reserve the juices.
Puree half of the tomatoes in a food processor until smooth.
Dice the remaining tomatoes into 1/2-inch pieces, discarding the cores.
Combine the pureed and diced tomatoes in a liquid measuring cup (you should have about 1 2/3 cups).
Add the reserved liquid to equal 2 cups.
Cook the pancetta (if using):
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering.
Add the pancetta (if using) and cook until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a small bowl and set aside.
Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan.
Sauté the aromatics:
If not using pancetta, heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering.
Add the onion and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are light golden around edges, about 3 minutes.
Add the garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Finish the sauce:
Stir in the tomatoes and a pinch of salt.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the vodka.
Return the pan to medium-high heat and simmer briskly until the alcohol flavor is cooked off, 8 to 10 minutes; stir frequently and lower the heat to medium if the simmering becomes too vigorous.
Stir in the cream and cook until hot, about 1 minute.
Cook the pasta:
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large Dutch oven over high heat.
Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the pasta.
Cook until just shy of al dente.
Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of cooking water, and transfer the pasta back to the Dutch oven.
Finish and serve:
Add the sauce to the pasta and toss over medium heat until the pasta absorbs some of sauce, 1 to 2 minutes, adding the reserved cooking water if the sauce is too thick.
Stir in the basil and the reserved pancetta and adjust the seasoning with salt.
Divide among pasta bowls and serve immediately, passing the Parmesan separately.
- So that the sauce and pasta finish cooking at the same time, drop the pasta into boiling water just after adding the vodka to the sauce.
- If possible, use premium vodka; inexpensive brands will taste harsh in this sauce.
- Pepper vodka imparts a pleasant flavor and can be substituted for plain.
- For a easier version: substitute the canned whole tomatoes for 2 cups of tomato passata.