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Greek Meatballs with Tomato Sauce (Soutzoukakia)

Known as soutzoukakia, these cigar-shaped meatballs are seasoned with cumin and garlic, then simmered in tomato sauce. The dish has origins in Smyrna, a former Greek settlement and now the Turkish city of Izmir on the Aegean coast.
Our recipe is based on the soutzoukakia we learned from Alexandra Manousakis and Afshin Molavi of Manousakis Winery on the Greek island of Crete. Made with a combination of ground lamb and beef, the meatballs have a deep, rich flavor perfectly matched by the tangy-sweet tomato sauce. If you prefer, you can use 1 pound of either type of meat.
An instant thermometer is the best way to check the meatballs for doneness; alternatively, cut one open—when done, the center should not be pink. The meatballs are browned on the stovetop, then finish cooking in the same pan in the oven, so you will need a 12-inch oven-safe skillet for this recipe.
Soutzoukakia typically are offered as part of a meze spread, but served with rice, they’re a terrific main.
Servings: 4
Author: Milk Street

Ingredients

  • 2 medium yellow onions peeled
  • 3 tablespoons panko breadcrumbs
  • kosher salt
  • ground black pepper
  • 1½ pounds ripe tomatoes halved
  • 8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
  • 8 ounces ground lamb
  • 4 medium garlic cloves finely grated
  • 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley divided
  • 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint divided
  • 3 teaspoons dried oregano divided
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
  • 1 large egg beaten
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil divided
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste

Instructions

Grate the onion:

  • Set a box grater in a medium bowl and grate the onions on the large holes down to the root ends; reserve the box grater.
  • Transfer half of the grated onion to a small bowl and set aside for the sauce.
  • To the grated onion in the medium bowl, add the panko and ½ teaspoon salt; stir, then let stand until the panko is softened, about 10 minutes.

Grate the tomatoes:

  • Meanwhile, into another medium bowl, grate the tomato halves (start with the cut sides against the grater); stop when you reach the skin and discard it.
  • Cover and set aside for making the sauce.

Prepare the meatball mixture:

  • To the onion-panko mixture, add the beef, lamb, half of the garlic, 2 tablespoons each of parsley and mint, 2 teaspoons of the oregano, the cumin, paprika, egg and ½ teaspoon pepper.
  • Mix with your hands until well combined.
  • Cover and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Form the meatballs:

  • Heat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the middle position.
  • Divide the chilled meat mixture into 12 evenly sized balls (a scant ¼ cup each, #16 portion scoop).
  • With wet hands, shape each one into an oblong about 3 inches long.

Brown the meatballs:

  • In a cast iron braiser (or a 12-inch oven-safe skillet) over medium, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering.
  • Add the meatballs and cook, using a thin metal spatula or 2 spoons to gently and occasionally turn them, until lightly browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes.
  • Transfer to a large plate and set aside.
  • Pour off and discard the fat in the braiser.

Make the sauce:

  • In the same braiser over medium-high, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, reserved grated onion, remaining garlic, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
  • Cook, scraping up any browned bits, until the moisture from the onion has evaporated and the onion and drippings are well browned, about 5 minutes; reduce the heat as needed if browning goes too quickly.
  • Stir in the tomato paste and remaining 1 teaspoon oregano, and cook for a minute or two.
  • Add the grated tomatoes and scrape up any browned bits.
  • Bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, stirring often, until the mixture is slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Bake the meatballs:

  • Off heat, nestle the meatballs in the sauce and add the accumulated juices.
  • Transfer the braiser to the oven and cook until the center of the meatballs registers 160°F and the sauce is brown at the edges, 13 to 18 minutes.

Finish and serve:

  • Remove the braiser from the oven (the handles will be hot).
  • Serve sprinkled with the remaining 2 tablespoons each parsley and mint.

Notes

  • Don’t use tongs to turn the meatballs in the skillet. Until they’re browned on all sides, the soutzoukakia are quite delicate and easily marred by tongs. A thin metal spatula is better for rotating them.
  • It can be helpful to have a bowl of water on hand to keep your hands wet while forming the meatballs.