In Oaxaca, black beans are a part of almost every meal. Though they often are served whole, we especially liked the balanced, complex flavor and smooth, velvety consistency of refried black beans. Lard gives these beans a rich meatiness, but coconut oil is a good vegetarian substitute. The beans can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week. We liked this topped with cotija and fresh cilantro.
Notes
Don't soak the beans before cooking. Unlike other types of dried beans, black beans soften readily without soaking. And don't forget to reserve the bean cooking liquid; you'll need 2 cups when pureeing the beans in the food processor. And if you'll be making black bean soup, you'll need 3 cups to thin the beans. The liquid also is useful for thinning the beans when reheating (they thicken as they stand).
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons refined coconut oil - or lard, divided
For cooking the beans
- 1 large white onion - chopped
- 1 pint grape tomatoes - or cherry tomatoes
- 5 guajillo chilies - stemmed and seeded
- 1 pound dried black beans - rinsed
- 10 medium garlic cloves - peeled and kept whole (can be crushed)
- 3 bay leaves
- 1 teaspoon aniseed
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt - plus more, to taste
For frying the beans
- 5 medium garlic cloves - minced
- ground black pepper - to taste
- 4 teaspoons ground cumin
- 4 teaspoons ground coriander
- 1 tablespoon ancho chili powder
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
Instructions
Cook the beans
- In a large pot over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of coconut oil until barely smoking.
- Add the onion, tomatoes, and guajillo chilies, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is well browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
- Add the beans, whole garlic cloves, bay, and aniseed, then stir in 10 cups water.
- Bring to a boil, then cover partially and reduce to low.
- Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are completely tender, 1½ hours to 2 hours.
Purée the beans
- Stir in 2 teaspoons of salt.
- Set a colander in a large bowl and drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid.
- Remove and discard the bay leaves from the beans.
- Transfer the drained beans to a food processor and pulse a few times to break up the beans.
- With the machine running, add 1½ cups of the reserved cooking liquid and process until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes, scraping the bowl as needed.
- Taste and season with salt, then set aside.
Fry the beans
- In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium, heat 2 tablespoons of the remaining coconut oil until shimmering.
- Add the minced garlic, cumin, coriander, chili powder, and oregano, then cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
- Stir in the pureed beans and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown on the bottom, 8 to 10 minutes.
- Continue to cook and stir, adding reserved cooking water as needed, until the mixture has the consistency of mashed potatoes, 5 to 7 minutes.
- Off heat, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon lard, then taste and season with salt and pepper.