Mokonuts, a tiny neighborhood café in Paris’ 11th arrondissement, is best known for the chewy, creative cookies baked by Moko Hirayama, who draws on flavors like sesame and miso.But the savory small plates created by her husband, Omar Koreitem—who blends Middle Eastern, French and American influences—deserve as much attention. In particular, his smashed and fried potatoes with chili vinaigrette.Equally crunchy and creamy, the potatoes are seasoned with a vibrant lemon-jalapeño dressing that seeps into the cracks and crannies of the potatoes. Though the dressing is wonderfully bold and essential, it turns out the key to his recipe is the least likely of ingredients: the water.To make these creamy-inside, crisp-outside potatoes, we first boil whole fingerlings or small Yukon Golds, then flatten and roast them in a ripping-hot oven then dress them with a tangy-spicy vinaigrette that nicely accents the potatoes’ starchy, mildly sweet flavor.
Notes
When boiling the potatoes, begin timing as soon as they’re added to the water. To make ahead, the potatoes can be boiled, smashed, cooled, and refrigerated a day in advance; to finish, brush with oil and roast as directed. The vinaigrette can be made in advance except for the chilies, then covered and refrigerated until ready to use; bring to room temperature and add the chilies. Don’t let the potatoes cool completely before smashing. They are easier to flatten and they hold their shape better when warm.
Ingredients
- 2½ pounds fingerling potatoes - or small (1- to 1½-inch) Yukon Gold potatoes
- 4 medium garlic cloves - peeled
- 3 sprigs rosemary
- ½ cup kosher salt
- ¼ cup lemon juice
- 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil - divided
- 1 small Fresno chili - or jalapeño, stemmed and sliced into thin rings
- ¼ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley - chopped
Instructions
Boil the potatoes
- Heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle position.
- In a large pot over high, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil.
- Add the potatoes, garlic, rosemary, and ½ cup salt, then cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until a skewer inserted into the largest potato meets no resistance, 18 to 22 minutes.
Cool the potatoes
- Using a slotted spoon transfer the potatoes to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet (leaving the rosemary behind) Place the garlic in a small bowl.
- Remove and discard the rosemary.
- Let the potatoes cool for about 10 minutes.
Make the vinaigrette
- Meanwhile, using a fork, mash the garlic to a paste.
- Stir in the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of oil, followed by the chilies; set aside.
Smash the potatoes and brush with oil
- After the potatoes have cooled slightly carefully remove the rack from the baking sheet.
- Wipe away any moisture on the baking sheet and place the potatoes in an even layer directly on the sheet.
- Using the bottom of a dry measuring cup or ramekin, press down on each potato so it is slightly flattened and splits open but remains intact.
- Brush the tops of the potatoes with the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil.
Roast the potatoes, dress, and serve
- Roast the potatoes without moving them until browned and crisp, 35 to 40 minutes.
- Using a wide metal spatula, transfer to a serving platter, then sprinkle with the parsley and drizzle with the vinaigrette.